I awake to a clear blue sky and frost on my sleeping bag, pillow, etc. The low golden light of the morning gives depth to the rock castles beyond.
My camp is a clearing in chest high grass in Coal Pit Wash, a slice of BLM land outside of town. Road noise is ever present, more audible than the crickets and birds surrounding.
The highway leads through Rockville, a town where American flags line the single road, on to Springdale, and Zion National Park. My destination today is the South Fork Canyon in the Kolob region of Zion.

The day starts with coffee and sun light. Soon I'm hiking a sandy trail through changing trees on the way to a overhanging orange and black streaked wall. The wall overhangs 20 degrees above a dry river bed, and it is riddled with sandstone huecos.

The area has a handful of classic bolted routes, and I intend to add another. The existing routes were established on lead. Being alone, I've devised a way to rappel bolt the new line. The system involves rope soloing an adjacent route, then using hooks to hang on my route. Should I fall, the only risk is a large swing into the air.
Zion requires bolts to be hand drilled, a time intensive process of hammering the drill and turning the bit until a 4" hole is created. Today I'll place one bolt on a route that likely requires 14. I recently quit my job, the effort required to establish this route shows my work has just begun.

Just wondering how you chose the line, other than scoping it out...
ReplyDeleteDid you guys TR the line somehow? With the angle, that seems nearly impossible. Or, did it just look like it had potential?
Zion is sure looking beautiful.
What an amazing place, Eli! The black and red is wonderful. Why are you able to place anchors--is it simply remote enough that you don't have to concern yourself with too many? I am sure I am showing my naivity about climbing... Love the progress report on your adventure.
ReplyDeleteKris- Last time we were up there, we noted the wall had potential for new lines. When I went back, I chose the line because it was obvious and looked do-able. We couldn't TR it.
ReplyDeleteMom- The climbs on this wall require permanent anchors (bolts) on the whole line because there are no features that can be naturally protected i.e. no crack system to temporarily place protection for the climber. This is the only way the climb would be possible. We'll place no more bolts than is necessary to safely climb the route. Over bolting can be an eye sore, but this amount of bolting is reasonable for the area and the particular climb.
I always love the pictures you paint with words, E. Thank you for sharing. So beautiful.
ReplyDeleteI'm so happy for you- what an experience! When do you plan on finishing the new route? Please keep us updated on your adventures!
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