Lake Tahoe

I recently returned from Nevada where Lizz and I visited my beach guard bro Tyler. For three days with David Hasselhoff’s hairless counterpart as our guide, we sampled the Tahoe area’s climbing, hiking and life at the lake.

Tyler keeping a watchful eye on Lake Tahoe
On the first day we went to the Snowshed Wall of Donner Pass where we decided to get started on a 5.6 chimney, Rage Reduction . The climb must be 5.6 because it would be just as hard to fall out of it as it was to make progress upward. The group climbing 5.12 face to our left seemed a little surprised confused and very impressed that we put up the chimney.


A short video of Tyler after the crux of Rage Reduction


Right: The view from the Snowshed Wall

We had a great time at the Donner Pass, climbing beautiful splitter cracks and tough face climbs. A personal highlight was leading Little Feat, a continuous arete with spicy bolt spacing and fun exposure. One of the best aspects of the day at Snowshed was the kindness and enthusiasm of the other parties climbing around us. We shared ropes like it was the UNL wall and everyone was happy to lend a hand in interpreting an arcane, at times sandbagged, guidebook.







After the intense day of climbing, on day 2 we decided to hike and hang out at the beach.


Left: Lizz enjoying the shade provided by a massive hollowed tree.

The hike serves as a perfect illustration of the amazing beauty and disappointing overdevelopment of the Tahoe area. The round trip distance was 5 or 6 miles with decent but easily manageable elevation changes. Interrupting the amazing views and vegetation encountered on the hike were lifts that shuttled people around the wilderness. Unfortunately, of the more than 70 miles of perimeter around Lake Tahoe, only about 15 remains undeveloped.








Right: The trail ended at a pristine alpine pond. Or you could just take the tram.









On a lighter note, when we returned from the hike, we made an unexpected discovery. It was like finding a new species. My heart was pounding, my hands were shaking, my mouth was watering. I now know what the first person to stumble upon a thick chunk of gold must have felt like, because when the cold lifeblood of Pabst Genuine Draft hit my tongue I knew I'd never thirst again. We spent the evening napping on the beach and sipping PGD. I gave Tyler $20 and told him to bring back 500 cases.


It's true
We took full advantage of day 3 with a trip to Lovers Leap. The Leap had some of the most unique climbs I've ever done. We started on Surrealistic Pillar Direct, a 5.10 splitter crack up a dihedral with a dicey traverse followed by a small, tricky roof and more splitter crack. At times pure stemming was the easiest way up while other moves required traditional jams. Like the other climbs there, Surrealistic Pillar was marked by horizontal ridges that ran the length of the wall.


Left: Me finishing the traverse on Surrealistic Pillar Direct.

We continued with Power Lust, an incredible 5.11 that exclusively traveled the horizontal ridges. Several times on the route the ridges were so far apart that very high mantles and big reaches were required.












Right: Tyler with a huge high foot and reach to get through a crux on Power Lust

Aside from the unique rock at Lovers Leap, the view and exposure, even at the base of the routes, was spectacular. The trail leading to the Main Wall was no more than 8 feet wide with a 100 foot drop awaiting a bad step.



Left: Lizz getting ready to hike down from the Main Wall of Lovers Leap















Visiting Tyler at Tahoe was a great time. Great climbing, hiking, people and Pabst Genuine Draft made for an unforgettable trip. Rumor has it that Tyler's currently hiking the 165 mile Tahoe Rim Trail loop. He will then wrap up his summer of running in slow motion along the shoreline in front of tanning college girls and head back to Boulder. We're excited that he's coming back.


The sun setting over Lake Tahoe