Desert Towers

If you live in the Denver-Boulder area, please join me tomorrow at Neptune Mountaineering (8:00PM, $5) for a slide show by Chrusher Bartlett. This desert climbing legend will present on Desert Towers (more info here). If you don't live around here, I'll tease you with some of my favorite memories of towers...

Castleton Tower


One of the more accessible desert towers (2-5.9 climbs and close to Moab) Castleton was my first tower. Andrew and I accidentally hopped on North Face (5.12) instead of North Chimney (5.9)... The scars on my hands are a constant reminded of this mistake. A couple days later, we climbed the North Chimney (success!).

The Kor-Ingalls route is one of the "fifty classic climbs", and rightly so. Justin and I tried to climb this on the cold March morning. After post-holing to the base, and struggling for a pitch, we bailed. A couple days later we tagged Castleton and The Priest in the same day.

The Priest


This tower is 800 yards from Castleton, but probably sees 1/20 the climbers. This is an unforgettable climb that includes: a tight chimney (like " I can't turn my head"), a wide chimney w/ a 30 ft run out, and a spread eagle position with 300 ft of air between your legs (right before the crux). Highly recommended.

Ancient Art

One of the coolest summits, and the climb isn't scary or very dirty. Got on this with a severely sprained ankle one time, I could barely fit my climbing shoe on over the wrap.

Lizard Rock

Does this even count? 5.8 R makes it worth while.

Light House Tower

A sweet little tower just outside of Moab. Great, small summit with manditory 5.9 down climbing. Did this at the end of a long trip to Moab. This climb was a real test for me at the time. One of the only cool days that summer.

Independence Monument

Another good entry tower. Lots of fun and safe.

Damn, I gotta get to the desert again.